Did we stumble across the best view in the Alps? Introducing Stella Helvetica:
Several people had been talking about a funicular train above the jazz town of Montreux on the shore's of Lac Leman, that despite being expensive, had some good trails back in to town. The lure of swimming in the lake had us, and with Bex and other Valais trails nearby there would easily be a good few days worth of riding before the next storm came through the alps.
Me and the lone Dutchy headed to Lac Leman, padded up and rode to the central Montreux station next to men in suits, blacked out Mercs and Asian tourists. After being quoted 60CHF for a day pass we said no. Our intel of a cheaper pass was wrong.
So instead we climbed 1000 metres up 20% stretches of road past English speaking all boys, and all girls boarding schools over looking the huge lake. The views made up for the unexpected climb. We'd brought all our food from France to save money so that at least made us feel smug at the Col. Little did we know what was instore.
The trail started by going through bike friendly gate's, a good sign surely? No, the trail was awkward the whole way down. It never got going.
Disappointed we got back to our lake side parking. I'd put two beers in the water to keep cool, even these were luke warm...
The following day we set of early know we had a big climb ahead, we took many breaks to make the 1800 metres upwards more do-able. The views were stunning all the way up so this kept us energised.
The following day we set of early know we had a big climb ahead, we took many breaks to make the 1800 metres upwards more do-able. The views were stunning all the way up so this kept us energised.
The Cabane and it’s lure of cold drinks was nearly in drinking distance. One last hike-a-bike section, dig deep I thought, lunch will be good and long up here, long enough to dry sweat ridden kit.
10 Swiss Francs later me and Wouts were close to heaven. The modern refuge (Cabane in Suisse) was a treat in itself, let alone the view north, south, east and west!
From our grassy picnic knoll we looked left into the whole Mont Blanc Massif, and to our right stretched out patchwork Rhone Valley agriculture up to the shore of Lac Leman.
It was eventually time to descend. We felt fairly re-freshed, but luckily the first section was really mellow and perfect for getting going again. From here we left the Cabane behind us and traversed with just enough downhill gradient that you didn’t need to pedal for about 1 km, all directly under cliff faces. The trail then changed to a ribbon switching left and right, a traverse here n’ there, left and right again, watch out for the cow poo! Two farmers were putting out an electric fence, around their up high alpine shack we went and through marvellous corners in a field well in need of some cow grazing. A wooden fence forced us to stop before our next section of treats lay ahead. Needles, dry dirt and roots itching to be pushed to the limits of their tyre giving grip.
We whooped down, crossing fire-roads, section after section of goodness. The final section became rocky with holes that required speed to skip over the top of the big gaps, through a neatly mowed garden and more rock gaps lay ahead. Speed, despite 1800 metres of climbing in our legs, and nearly 1800 metres of descending in our braking fingers, needed to be kept.
Just like the smiles that lasted into the bar perfectly positioned at the end of the trail, through the chope’s (Valais-ian for pint), the ride home to the campsite, and for days after!
STELLA HELVETICA
The tour of this Swiss valley was not over and for the final day we crossed back into Vaud, and Bex for some train laps with some Chamoniards. It was so dry, the flowy bits of trail were mega fast and grippy, which should have helped in the numerous chutes littered in the woods, but man, are they steep! Great fun on trail bikes lap after lap!
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